https://www.barkandwhiskers.com/2015-06-12-nl-cat-kneading/
https://www.barkandwhiskers.com/p/2b863a3a-21f1-4232-a26a-ab1004d97c9c/

By Dr. Becker

Cats are mysterious, often independent creatures, but that doesn’t mean they don’t interact with their owners. On the contrary, cats use multiple methods of communication and will actually follow your lead in terms of how much involvement the two of you share.¹ As felines, however, cats tend to display certain behaviors that may seem peculiar to us humans.

One of the most common is “kneading,” which is when your cat pushes her paws against a soft surface. Many cats will also purr while kneading, which suggests this activity is pleasurable for her. So is kneading an ingrained instinct or more of a hobby that some cats enjoy?

Why Does My Cat Knead with Her Paws?

Newborn kittens knead their moms in order to stimulate the flow of milk from her mammary glands. This is an instinctual behavior that many cats continue into adulthood. It was once believed that adult cats who still knead may have been taken from their mothers too soon, but this has been largely debunked since the majority of adult cats knead.

One of the key theories for why adult cats knead is for contentment or stress relief. Cats seem to enjoy the behavior, perhaps because it reminds them of soothing moments nursing as a kitten.

Wild cats also build nesting places out of grass and leaves, to both rest and give birth in, and it’s likely they knead the grasses into place. Your domestic kitty may be continuing on with this “wild” behavior. Simon King, host of BBC’s Big Cat Diary, believes kneading is a remnant of kitten-like behavior:

“Over thousands of years of domestication we have encouraged cats to maintain much of their kitten-like relationship, with ourselves playing the role of surrogate parents.”

Another theory is that cats knead to mark their territory. Your kitty has scent glands in her paws, and her scent will be left behind on any surface she spends time kneading. So, this behavior might be a way for her to let others know where she’s been. Likely, however, it’s a combination of all of the above.

If your cat likes to knead on your lap, place a thick blanket there first so her nails don’t dig into your skin. Keeping her claws trimmed short will also help. Some cats tend to become obsessive about kneading, and may try to knead frequently while suckling a stuffed toy or blanket. If the behavior seems obsessive, try to distract her with a toy or healthy treat.

Why Does My Cat Stick Her Butt in My Face?

Another feline peculiarity… your cat may jump up on the desk where you’re working and promptly turn her backside toward your face. Don’t be offended; instead think of it as a “handshake in reverse.”²

One of the ways cats communicate is by rubbing objects with their heads, ears, and tails. This leaves their chemical signature behind. Cats who live together often rub each other in a friendly fashion, possibly as a way of forming a “colony scent” that lets everyone know they all belong. When you pet your cat, you’re also depositing your scent on your cat, which is a social act in kitty language.

So, when your cat sticks her behind in your face, it’s most likely a way of asking for affection and bonding time. As reported by Vet Street:³

“Instead of ‘sticking her behind in your face,’ your cat may very well be asking you for affection or reaffirmation of your social bond by soliciting attention and petting. When you pet your cat, you are also depositing your odors from the glands on your hand and picking up her odors. Cats regard this as being social.

When cats rub alongside each other, they are facing in opposite directions and usually end up standing with their hind ends positioned toward one another. Since we do not rub bodies with our cats but use our hands instead, this is probably why they end up directing their posteriors toward us.”

If you want to know more about your cat’s curious behaviors, like biting you when you pet her, meowing constantly, or pawing at her water dish, be sure to read “The Silent Language of Cats – And Why Their Owners Don’t Understand.”

https://www.barkandwhiskers.com/2015-05-24-nl-botulism-poisoning/
https://www.barkandwhiskers.com/p/8ea39133-9a76-418a-8729-57e76940b6ac/

By Dr. Becker

Botulism is a rare but potentially fatal form of poisoning that can result from eating spoiled raw meat, dead animals, or decaying vegetable matter infected with the Clostridium botulinum type C neurotoxin.

Clostridium botulinum is a gram-positive, rod-shaped, anaerobic, spore-forming, motile bacterium with the ability to produce the neurotoxin botulinum.

Symptoms of Botulism

Dogs are generally resistant to the more severe effects of Clostridium botulinum, and the disease is almost unheard of in cats.

Once ingested, it can take a few hours to a few days for botulism symptoms to appear. The bacteria’s neurotoxin causes weakness that begins in an animal’s back legs and moves forward into the trunk, neck, and front legs, ultimately causing paralysis of all four limbs.

Other signs of botulism include difficulty chewing and swallowing, drooling, vomiting, abdominal pain, and dry eyes.

Diagnosis

Your veterinarian will need to know if your pet has potentially had contact with spoiled meat or a dead animal. He or she will perform a thorough physical exam and order a blood chemistry profile, complete blood count, and urinalysis.

Your pet’s blood will also be tested for the presence of the Clostridium botulinum neurotoxin. A stool or vomit sample may also be taken to check for presence of the toxin.

Chest x-rays may be required to check the health of the lungs and the upper gastrointestinal tract, since botulism intoxication has the potential to paralyze the respiratory muscles.

Treatment Options

A type C anti-toxin for botulism will be given to neutralize the toxin and prevent further progression of the disease. Additional treatment will depend on the severity of your pet’s condition. I have found the homeopathic remedy Botulinum to be very beneficial.

A dog that is only mildly affected may still require hospitalization for intravenous (IV) fluids and feeding. A severely ill animal who is having trouble breathing due to paralysis of the respiratory muscles must be closely monitored in an intensive care unit-type setting.

A stomach tube may be needed for feeding, and the animal may require a ventilator to assist with breathing in worst-case scenarios.

Complete recovery from botulism intoxication usually takes from one to three weeks.

Preventing Botulism

It’s important to never allow your pet to eat dead animal carcasses or spoiled raw meat.

Some people mistakenly believe that because dogs and cats can handle a much higher bacterial load from their food than humans, they can literally eat anything and be fine. That’s just not true – your dog or cat can absolutely get food poisoning.

It’s never a good idea to feed your pet something that could be spoiled or has been left in the fridge for several weeks. My motto is when in doubt, throw it out.

How to Safely Feed a Raw Diet to Your Pet

I want to emphasize that botulism is rarely seen in pets, and it is the result of rotten -- not raw -- meat. I’m a strong advocate of feeding fresh raw meat diets to dogs and cats, and for those of you who are thinking about switching a pet to a more species-appropriate diet, please know that you can feed raw very safely (despite what you may have heard elsewhere, including from your own veterinarian).

In order to prevent parasites (roundworms, hookworms, tapeworms, etc.) from invading your pet’s homemade raw diet, we simply avoid including the guts – the stomach and small and large intestines – in the meat mix. These are the organs that harbor parasites. If you’re buying commercially available raw pet food, the guts have already been removed.

Muscle meat is used to prepare raw food diets, and muscle meat is sterile except in rare instances when parasites escape the gastrointestinal tract (guts) and travel there. For example, certain parasites like Toxoplasma gondii, which causes toxoplasmosis, can get into muscle meat and make your pet sick.

This is why you should freeze raw meats (the length of time varies for different parasites, three weeks will kill all of them) before feeding them to your dog or cat. By freezing meats before serving, and by removing the guts of prey species, you can successfully avoid exposing your raw fed pet to parasites.

Concerned About Salmonella in Raw Diets?

Ironically, salmonella is the reason for most recalls of processed pet foods – not raw diets. Yet despite this irrefutable fact, many veterinarians and pet nutritionists continue to warn people away from raw feeding with dire warnings about salmonella contamination.

There are over 1,800 species of salmonella. It is a bacteria that lives in many different species of mammals, including dogs and cats, who typically harbor the species known as Salmonella typhimurium.¹

Your dog or cat has salmonella in his gastrointestinal tract much of the time, whether you feed raw foods or processed, dry food. It’s not some scary foreign invader in your pet’s gut – it’s a bug his body is quite familiar with.

An abundance of pathologic salmonella species can cause problems for some animals based on their age, nutritional status, the presence of cancer or neoplasia, other diseases, stress, and the administration of antibiotics, steroids, or chemotherapy.

Your Pet’s Body Is Designed to Handle a Significant Bacterial Load

Healthy dogs and cats are built to handle bacterial loads from food that would cause significant illness in you or me. Your pet's body is well-equipped to deal with heavy doses of familiar and strange bacteria because nature built him to catch, kill, and immediately consume his prey.

Your dog's or cat's stomach is highly acidic, with a pH range of 1-2.5. Nothing much can survive that acidic environment – it exists to keep your pet safe from potentially contaminated raw meat and other consumables.

In addition to the acid, dogs and cats also naturally produce a tremendous amount of bile. Bile is both anti-parasitic and anti-pathogenic. So if something potentially harmful isn't entirely neutralized by stomach acid, the bile is a secondary defense. And your pet's powerful pancreatic enzymes also help break down and digest food.

Keeping Your Pet’s GI Tract in Top Form

There are three important steps in helping to keep your pet's digestive system strong and resilient enough to handle a heavy bacterial load, and to support overall immune function:

• Minimize stress by feeding a species-appropriate diet, the kind your dog or cat is meant to eat. It's important to feed meat-based food to your carnivorous dog or cat.
• Minimize the drugs your pet takes, such as antibiotics. Reseed the gut during and after antibiotic therapy with a probiotic. It's also a good idea to maintain your dog or cat on a daily probiotic to balance the ratio of good to bad bacteria (gut flora).
• A good-quality digestive enzyme and probiotic will also help your pet’s body get the most out of the food you feed.

https://www.barkandwhiskers.com/2016-05-28-nl-travel-with-pets/
https://www.barkandwhiskers.com/p/68a31d3a-98b7-41b5-9d5c-3109c2df7781/

By Dr. Becker

More than half of U.S. pet owners (56 percent) travel with their pets, as do a sizeable number of those in the U.K. (41 percent).¹ Understandably, the biggest concern pet owners have is that their pets will become stressed out, but this can be effectively managed by making the proper preparations.

While it may be tempting to hop in the car, roll down the windows and let your pup happily ride in the front seat, stick his head out the window and travel with his ears blowing in the breeze, these are among the worst choices for your pet's safety.

About the only worse choice would be to travel with your pet loose in the back of a pick-up truck; in the event of an accident, an unrestrained pet is at serious risk of injury.

Pet Car Safety 101: Proper Restraint

You wouldn't allow your children to ride in a vehicle unrestrained, and you shouldn't allow your pet to do so either. In the car, I recommend keeping your dog in a crate, as it is by far the safest method.

That being said, it's important to properly restrain the crate in your vehicle as well, so you'll want to choose one with tie-down straps.

Many crate and pet carrier manufacturers claim their products are crash-tested and safe for use in a vehicle, but there are no established test protocols or standards required to make such claims.

Last year, the Center for Pet Safety (CPS) along with Subaru of America, conducted a study that looked into safety of such products and found many are actually unsafe.²

The researchers tested pet products, including pet booster seats, according to the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard crash conditions for child safety seats. A variety of (simulated) dog breeds in different shapes and sizes were used in the tests.

Many problems were revealed, especially among products that connect to dog collars and harnesses. The collars could choke your dog in an accident and oftentimes the harnesses failed, "resulting in catastrophic failure that could cause serious injury to both the pet and vehicle passengers."

Top-Rated Travel Crates, Harnesses and Carriers

While CPS does not recommend the use of any pet travel seats or booster seats, they did recommend several harnesses (one with a CPS certified five-star crash test rating), crates and carriers, each of which has strength-rated anchor straps or worked in connection with vehicles existing LATCH connection systems (used for children's car seats).

While you could technically secure most any crate in your vehicle using elastic or rubber bungee cords, these are not secure enough in an accident, putting your pet at risk of injury.

Keep in mind, also, that putting your pet into a crate, carrier or secure harness is for both their safety and yours. An unrestrained pet can be a distraction to the driver or could crawl under their feet, causing an accident.

In an accident, an unrestrained pet can also turn into a projectile, which is life-threatening for your pet and other passengers, who could be struck by the pet.

You'll want to choose a crate or carrier that fits your pet snugly, with enough room to be comfortable but not excess room (which poses a risk to your pet in an accident). Your pet should then be secured into the back seat or cargo area of the vehicle — not the front passenger seat.

The top-rated harness had an infinity-loop system that allows it to be safely attached to your vehicle's seatbelt along with an energy-absorbing padded vest. Specifically, CPS identified the following as the safest travel options for pets:³

• Sleepypod Clickit Sport Harness
• Gunner Kennel G1 Intermediate with Strength Rated Anchor Straps
• Sleepypod Mobile Pet Bed with PPRS Handilock
• PetEgo JetSet Carrier with ISOFIX-LATCH Connection

Is It Safe to Travel by Air With Your Pet?

It can be safe to travel by air with your pet, but there are no guarantees, and your experience may vary widely depending on airline, time of year and many other factors. Ideally, if your trip requires air travel, I recommend leaving your pet at home in the care of a qualified pet sitter.

If that's not an option and you must fly with your pet, it's important to do your homework first. While the pet cargo area on most aircraft is temperature- and pressure-controlled, the conditions can shift widely.

A study by the American Association of Laboratory Animal Science showed that cargo hold temperatures shift by 50 degrees or more during most flights. On half the flights studied, the cargo area reached 85 degrees, which is quite a bit warmer than the temperature in the passenger cabin.

And 15 percent of the time, the cargo hold dropped to a chilly 45 degrees. What may be more dangerous than the cargo hold itself is what happens to your pet before and after boarding. This is the riskiest time for a pet during air travel. Dr. Laurie S. Coger, told USA Today:⁴

"Most injuries, escapes or deaths occur on the ground … Heat stroke, injuries due to crates being dropped or broken, or other mishaps are most likely during loading and unloading …

The reason many airlines restrict travel during hot or cold times is the lack of climate control while waiting to board the plane.

… Tarmacs can get blazingly hot or dangerously cold, putting a pet sitting in an airline crate at great risk. Some airlines have climate-controlled pet areas where pets are held until they board.

Always ask what an airline's procedures are for pets that are waiting to board, and for when they are unloaded."

If you're planning to put your pet on a plane, be sure he is acclimated to his crate well ahead of time, and think twice before administering a sedative, which may cause potentially dangerous changes in heart rate, function and balance (and should definitely be avoided in dogs with epilepsy or cardiovascular disease).

To help reduce anxiety naturally, consider giving flower essences orally before, during and after travel. Mist the air around your dog's carrier with pet-friendly essential oils a few days before travel.

RV Travel With Pets

Sixty-one percent of RV owners travel with pets; it's one of the great benefits of travelling this way!⁵ However, your pet should be safely restrained, just as in any vehicle — not allowed to roam freely about the interior. You should also be very cautious about leaving your pet in the RV while you go sightseeing. Temperatures can quickly become deadly inside, and even leaving the air conditioning running is not a guarantee, as a power failure would put your pet's life at risk.

If you plan to leave pets in your RV, there are temperature-monitoring devices available that will send a signal to your cell phone if the temperature gets too hot or too cold. To be sure your dog doesn't escape, you'll also want to securely fasten a leash and collar or harness before venturing outdoors. A pet gate can be used as a barrier if you plan to stay in one place and leave the door open.

Finally, if you let your cat roam your RV while you're parked, be sure you know of his whereabouts before extending or retracting a slide-out. If your cat hides in such a spot, he could be seriously injured.

Pack This Before Travelling With Your Pet

No matter what type of travel you're planning, preparing accordingly ahead of time is key (check out the app BringFido for this). Identify ER clinics along the way, and be sure your hotel or campground allows pets and that you've planned for plenty of pit stops along the way. You should pack a bag for your dog too, including items such as:

• A basic first-aid kit
• An extra collar and ID tag
• Leash
• A copy of your pet's medical file in print form or on a thumb drive
• Their dog bed, or towels or blankets for bedding and a couple of favorite toys
• Bowls, food and treats, along with extra bottled water

You'll also want to plan some extra time into your itinerary, as traveling with pets may call for unexpected, and extended, stops. However, your extra efforts and preparation will surely pay off, and you and your pet will share new adventures and memories to last you a lifetime.

https://www.barkandwhiskers.com/2017-01-16-nl-molasses-pet-food/
https://www.barkandwhiskers.com/p/e8d4a476-fe77-40f7-883d-b27b276eb573/

By Dr. Becker

Recently I ran across an article in a pet food industry journal with the headline, “Molasses: Sweetener or functional carbohydrate?” and the subheading, “Is there a larger place in pet food for this functional pet food ingredient?”  “Uh oh,” I thought to myself, “here we go again …”

You’ve probably heard the term functional food, but many people are unsure exactly what it means. According to the International Food Information Council Foundation (IFIC), functional foods:

“… [Are] thought to provide benefits beyond basic nutrition [vitamins and minerals] and may play a role in reducing or minimizing the risk of certain diseases and other health conditions.”¹

Needless to say, the article headline caught my eye because I was curious as to what sort of health benefits sugar could possibly provide pets.

Some dog foods and treats on the market already include molasses, and according to Greg Aldrich, Ph.D., writing for PetfoodIndustry.com, “It smells great and dogs like the taste.”²

The 411 on Molasses

Molasses, also known as black treacle in the U.K., is a gooey byproduct of the process that turns sugarcane and sugar beets into sugar. It’s used primarily to sweeten and flavor foods intended for human consumption.

When sugarcane is harvested, it’s stripped of its leaves and the juice is extracted by cutting, crushing or mashing the plants. The juice is then boiled to crystallize the sugar in a processed called first syrup. First syrup product is sometimes called cane syrup and has the highest sugar content.

If the syrup is boiled a second time, it creates a product called second molasses, which has a slightly bitter taste.

The product of a third boiling is dark, thick blackstrap molasses, which has a robust, bitter flavor. Most of the sucrose from the original juice has crystallized and been removed, and the remaining sugar content is small.

Blackstrap molasses has a wide range of uses, including as a dietary supplement because it contains vitamin B6, calcium, magnesium, iron, manganese and potassium. It’s also used in baking, in the production of ethanol, as fertilizer and as an ingredient in cattle feed.

Molasses made from sugar beets is a different type of molasses and the one being marketed to the pet food industry. Only the syrup that remains after the final crystallization stage is called molasses.

Beet molasses is 50 percent sugar, predominantly sucrose, but contains significant amounts of glucose and fructose. Beet molasses isn’t considered a human-grade food, so it’s used in animal feed.

If a molasses is marked “unsulphured” (British spelling), it just means it’s no longer being preserved with sulfur dioxide, which was once added to many foods to control molds and bacteria.

In molasses, it was also used as a bleaching agent to lighten the color. Most brands no longer contain sulfur dioxide because it can give an off-flavor to the food and is toxic in high doses.

Molasses in Dog Food and Treats

There are apparently no regulatory restrictions on the use of molasses in pet food. According to Aldrich, it’s used in dog foods and especially in baked biscuits and treats as a sweetener, binder and dust suppressant, as well as a source of energy.

“Molasses works especially well in baked treats,” says Aldrich, “as this takes advantage of reducing sugar interactions with amino acids in high-temperature, dry-heat baking ovens to form color and flavor.”³

It can also be used as a humectant (moisture preserver) in semi-moist and soft-moist pet foods, and as a component in jerky cures and flavorings. Aldrich mentions, “Some would argue that dogs do not need sucrose in their diets and may decry the addition to pet food.”⁴

His response is that since polyol (sugar alcohol) humectants are already in wide use in pet foods today, molasses might be preferable as a “natural source” that is appealing to both dogs and their owners.

Aldrich adds, “Plus, it contains some additional plant components that are known to benefit the animal.”⁵

He’s referring to raffinose, which “behaves like a prebiotic,” betaine and other phytonutrients. It’s these substances, he says, that give rise to “some homeopathic medicinal claims regarding the virtues of molasses in disease prevention and cures.”

How a Junk Food Dog Biscuit Gets Sold as a Healthy Treat

I guess it’s the sugar cane or sugar beet plant components that make molasses a “functional carbohydrate,” according to Aldrich. I’m trying to imagine the marketing buzzwords that might be used to promote a new dog biscuit with added molasses. I think these are a given:

• Naturally sweetened
• Contains prebiotics to promote the growth of friendly bacteria in the digestive tract
• Contains phytonutrients to help prevent disease

See how easy it is to apply marketing spin to turn a grain-based, sugary dog biscuit into a “functional” treat? How many dog parents do you think would buy these biscuits thinking they were offering their pet a healthy snack? I’m guessing plenty.

Sugar by Any Other Name (Molasses) Is Still Sugar

Added sugar has no place in a healthy dog’s (or cat’s diet). Sugary pet food and treats can lead to obesity and all the health problems that go along with it, including diabetes and cancer. Sugar also feeds yeast and other opportunistic pathogens in the small intestine.

A high-quality pet treat won’t contain grains or unnecessary fillers, rendered animal byproducts, added sugar (masquerading as molasses or honey), chemicals, artificial preservatives or ingredients known to be allergenic.

These criteria rule out the vast majority of commercial pet treats on the market. However, most top-notch human-grade pet food producers (typically small operators) also make a few types of treats. I also recommend avoiding all grain-based treats. Your dog or cat has no biological requirement for the carbs in these treats, and in addition, they’re pro-inflammatory.

Instead of store-bought treats, consider offering living human foods instead. Cubed meats and cheeses make excellent training treats, as well as frozen peas and raw almonds, cashews, pecans, raw pumpkin seeds and Brazil nuts (but never macadamia nuts).

Healthy Pet Treats From Your Own Kitchen

If your dog likes dehydrated chicken strips (chicken jerky), you can make your own quite easily. Just buy some boneless chicken breasts, clean them and slice into long, thin strips — the thinner the better.

Place the strips on a greased or non-stick cookie sheet and bake them for at least three hours at 180 degrees F. The low temp dries the chicken out slowly, and the strips wind up nice and chewy. Let the strips cool, and then store them in plastic bags or another airtight container. You can also freeze them.

If you buy commercial canned pet food, you can "repurpose" a can for use as a supply of healthy treats. Open a can of your pet's favorite brand and spoon out little treat sized amounts onto a baking sheet covered with parchment paper. Put the baking sheet into the freezer until the bite-sized bits of food are frozen.

Then move them to an airtight container and put them back into the freezer until you're ready to offer them as snacks. For more ideas on preparing special homemade treats for your furry companion, be sure to download my free e-book "Homemade Treats for Healthy Pets," which is loaded with nutritious, super-simple recipes for both cats and dogs.

https://www.barkandwhiskers.com/2015-11-16-nl-new-puppy-arrival-preparations/
https://www.barkandwhiskers.com/p/fd850f41-6e12-433c-bd9b-aaefccaf8165/

By Dr. Becker

Bringing home a new puppy is a very exciting, fun time for family members (including the new furry addition). It's also typically a somewhat stressful period as everyone makes the adjustments necessary to integrate the new puppy into the household.

In order for things to go as smoothly as possible, I believe preparation is priceless. Planning ahead for your new arrival can make a huge difference in managing everyone's stress during puppy's first few weeks home.

Before Puppy Comes Home

You'll have your hands full from the moment your new pet arrives, so get all necessary shopping out of the way beforehand. This will leave you with plenty of time for bonding with your new pet, house training, socialization, and keeping him out of mischief!

A new puppy shopping list will include:

An appropriately-sized crate	A collar, harness, and leash
Bedding	Dog brush
Food and water bowls	Nail clippers
Non-toxic chew toys	All-natural dog shampoo

You'll also need a supply of the food your puppy is currently eating, as well as the diet you plan to transition him to once he's settled in. It's very important to keep him on his regular food while he adjusts to his new home, family, and daily routine.

You don't want to add to his stress level by switching his diet immediately, which will almost certainly result in tummy troubles and diarrhea.

It's also important to puppy-proof your home before your pet arrives. For example, move cords and houseplants out of reach. If you have children, you can involve them by having them get down on the floor to take a puppy-eye view of all the temptations your new little guy might want to investigate. Pick up anything that has dropped on the floor like rubber bands or paper clips.

For more detailed information on how to make sure your home is safe and secure before puppy gets there, read 10 Pet-Proofing Steps for New Dog Parents.

Pet-proofing your home before your new puppy arrives is the best way to prevent choking, vomiting, diarrhea, or another preventable crisis during those important first few weeks.

Additional Pre-Puppy Arrival Tasks

Before the big homecoming, it's also a good idea to decide where your new puppy will eat her meals, the best location for her water bowl(s), and sleeping arrangements – will she sleep in your bedroom, and if so, in your bed or in her crate?

I'm a big advocate of crate training dogs. You may have already watched my videos on crate training and know I consider it a very important part of keeping your new puppy safe when you're not at home or can't keep a constant eye on her.

If a crate seems like a jail cell to you, consider this: your puppy is, by nature, a den dweller. When properly introduced to her crate (which I discuss at length in the videos linked above), she will feel safe and secure in her own little "den" for the rest of her life. Think of it as a crib with a lid! There are huge benefits to having a crate-trained dog, for both you and your canine companion.

I also strongly recommend you have the crate ready for use when your puppy comes home. If she's allowed to sleep in your bed with you for several days and then you move her to a crate, she won't view it as a positive change. That's because she has already learned her nighttime sleeping spot is your bed.

Moving her to the crate may cause an exaggerated response (whining or crying, for example) over and above what you could have expected, had you crated her on her first night with you. So, I recommend purchasing the crate before the puppy arrives, and putting it to use her first day home.

Puppy's First Day Home

It's a good idea if you're picking up your puppy, to bring along his new crate for the ride home, along with his collar or harness and leash. Put something soft for him to lie on in the crate, along with a few all-natural treats. If you're picking him up from a breeder, see if you can take something with you that smells like his mom or littermates, and put that item in the crate as well.

When you arrive home, before you bring him inside, take puppy to a potty spot and encourage him to relieve himself. Have treats ready to reward him when he does.

Once inside, make sure he's supervised virtually every minute he's not in his crate. Giving a new puppy unrestricted access to your house is asking for trouble, and the focus should be on helping him succeed in everything he does in his new life with you.

Spend time with your puppy talking softly to him, petting and cuddling him, and getting him comfortable with your presence, the sound of your voice, and your touch. Take the opportunity to handle all his potentially sensitive zones, such as his paws, ears, inside his mouth, and his tail.

This will help him get used to being touched in those areas, and will make life much easier when it's time to brush his teeth, trim his nails, or inspect his ears.

Keep in mind that puppies are still developing control of their need to urinate and defecate, so make sure you stick to a schedule for potty walks. It's a given that puppy will need to pee and/or poop first thing in the morning, right before bedtime, after each meal, and typically after play sessions.

For more detailed information on this very important topic, take a look at my two-part video series on how to housetrain a dog of any age.

Day Two and Beyond

The first week or two of your puppy's new life with you should include an initial veterinary checkup. You'll want to insure the vet you select has a practice philosophy that meets your needs and goals as a pet owner. There are vets who practice strictly traditional, Western veterinary medicine. There are holistic veterinarians. And, there are practitioners who combine allopathic veterinary medicine and alternative therapies to treat their patients.

It's also important to begin to socialize your puppy as soon as she joins your family. A puppy cannot be socialized by staying inside the house or backyard, by the occasional ride in the car, walk down the street, or visit to the dog park. The presence of other dogs in the family doesn't mean your puppy is being socialized.

Proper socialization requires exposing your puppy to as many new people, animals, environments, and other stimuli as possible without overwhelming her. Over-stimulation can result in excessive fear, withdrawal, or avoidance behavior, so knowing how much is enough is important.

You should also begin obedience training your pup using positive behavior reinforcement techniques. You can take the do-it-yourself approach, or you can sign up for a local puppy class, which provides the additional benefit of socialization.

Regular, ongoing socialization and training will insure your adorable little puppy matures into a confident, balanced adult dog.

https://www.barkandwhiskers.com/2017-09-30-nl-why-pet-owners-favor-dry-pet-food/
https://www.barkandwhiskers.com/p/8139323b-029d-45e6-ba38-9df5179afc81/

By Dr. Becker

Despite the fact that an increasing number of pet owners are becoming better informed about nutritionally balanced, species-appropriate diets for dogs and cats, sadly, it seems there’s still an awful lot of kibble being sold. According to a Packaged Facts survey conducted earlier in the year, pet owners generally believe dry food is: 1) healthier and 2) better for pets’ teeth.¹ Honestly, nothing could be further the truth — more about that shortly. Even more disheartening is this observation:

“Alongside these pet health-centered convictions,” writes David Sprinkle of Packaged Facts, “and perhaps helping to keep them afloat, is a more self-interested pet owner preference for pet foods that aren’t overly odorous.”²

What Sprinkle is saying is that it’s possible many pet owners are concerned first and foremost with less smelly pet food, and not so much about the supposed health and dental benefits of kibble. This isn’t entirely surprising, since it was convenience that made kibble so appealing in the first place, similar to the popularity of processed and fast food for humans.

And it certainly doesn’t help that pet food manufacturers spend huge amounts of money marketing their dead, overcooked formulas as “healthy,” or that the majority of veterinarians promote the stuff, often selling it in the lobbies of their practices.

The Myth That Will Not Die: Kibble Is Good for Your Pet’s Teeth

This is like a zombie myth — it just can’t be killed! Dry pet food is promoted as helping to keep pets’ teeth clean, but it’s complete nonsense. Kibble is no better for your dog’s or cat’s teeth than crunchy human food is for your teeth. It would never occur to you to eat a handful of peanut brittle or granola to remove plaque and tartar from your teeth, would it? The idea that dry food keeps your pet’s teeth clean is just as silly.

However, diet certainly plays a significant role in the development of tartar on your pet’s teeth. Wild dogs and cats have strong, healthy teeth partly because they eat raw meaty bones. Raw diets — even prepared, ground raw diets — help control tartar. Raw ground bone is a gentle dental abrasive, acting like fine sandpaper when chewed, which helps remove debris stuck on teeth. The meat contains natural enzymes, and in addition, raw food doesn’t stick to teeth, unlike starchy kibble.

For dogs and cats, chewing also plays an important role in removing plaque and tartar from teeth. Even though there are plenty of toys and food products on the market that can be of some, raw bones are really the best option, and few dogs will turn them down.

It’s important the bones are raw, because cooked bones can splinter and do serious damage to the gastrointestinal (GI) tract. The size depends on the size of your pet and whether she’s such an eager chewer that she risks injuring herself or even breaking teeth. Your dog should always be supervised when she’s working on a bone to minimize the risk of choking or tooth damage, and raw bones should be refrigerated between chewing sessions.

Daily Brushing Is the Best Way to Keep Your Pet’s Teeth Clean

With a gentle hand, patience and persistence, most pet parents can teach their dog or cat to submit to daily tooth brushing, which is the ideal way to insure tartar doesn’t form on tooth surfaces. One of the secrets to successful tooth brushing is to progress slowly and gently, allowing your pet to adapt at his own pace.

Start with your finger rather than a toothbrush and get him familiar with having your finger in his mouth. Gently rub the top front teeth and all the way to the back teeth. Then do the same on the lower teeth. Praise him often and keep sessions short.

Once your pet is accepting of your finger in his mouth, wrap a very thin damp cloth or piece of gauze around your fingertip and rub the teeth. You’ll probably be stunned by the amount of gunk you wipe off with just a piece of gauze. The next step is to use a safe, natural dental cleaning product designed for pets and apply a small amount to the gauze before you rub his teeth. Once he gets used to this, you can progress to either a finger brush or a soft toothbrush the right size for his mouth.

If your pet is highly resistant to having his teeth rubbed or brushed, there are products available that when applied to the teeth go to work to break down plaque and tartar without brushing. However, the more rubbing and brushing he’ll allow, the more quickly you’ll see results, and the easier it will be to maintain your his oral health.

Why I Almost Never Recommend Dry Pet Food

While most kibble is formulated to meet the basic nutritional requirements of dogs and cats, it certainly doesn’t provide optimal nourishment for the long haul. I have several issues with dry pet food, but let’s start with the quality of the raw ingredients. Rendering plants create meat and bone meal from a variety of dubious sources, for example, parts of cows that can't be sold for human consumption, including bones, the digestive system, the brain, udders, hide and more.

They also may use the carcasses of diseased animals, expired grocery store meat (including the plastic and Styrofoam packaging), road kill, zoo animals and dogs and cats that have been euthanized. Here’s how Slate describes the process of turning these raw ingredients into pet food:

“This material is slowly pulverized into one big blend of dead stuff and meat packaging. It is then transferred into a vat where it is heated for hours to between 220 [to] 270 degrees F. At such high temperatures, the fat and grease float to the top along with any fat-soluble compounds or solids that get mixed up with them.

Most viruses and bacteria are killed. The fat can then be skimmed off, packaged and renamed. Most of this material is called 'meat and bone meal.' It can be used in livestock feed, pet food or fertilizer … There is essentially no federal enforcement of standards for the contents of pet food.

… Indeed, the same system that doesn't know whether its main ingredient is chicken beaks or Dachshund really cannot guarantee adequate nutrition to the dogs that eat it."

There is one dry food company, Carna4, that prides itself on using ethically sourced, humanely raised meats and no synthetic nutrients from China (unlike all the other brands). So if you must feed kibble, I suggest this brand. However, there are still other issues with kibble, in general.

Additional Problems With Feeding Pets Kibble

Aside from poor-quality meats, byproducts and synthetic vitamins and minerals, most commercial dry pet foods are based on high-glycemic, genetically modified (GM) corn, wheat, rice or potato — grains and starches that have no place in your pet's diet and create metabolically stressful insulin, glucagon and cortisol spikes throughout the day.

In fact, many grain-free dry foods have a higher glycemic index than regular pet foods due to excessive amounts of potatoes, peas, lentils or tapioca included in the formulas. Carbs also break down into sugar, which fuels degenerative conditions such as diabetes, obesity and cancer.

In the last 50 years we've learned the hard way that feeding biologically inappropriate diets (low-fat, high-carb diets that permeate the pet food industry) does not create health in dogs and cats. In fact, the amount of chronic inflammatory and degenerative diseases is epidemic, all relating to diet and lifestyle, in my opinion.

Further, low-quality proteins and fats (not fit for human consumption), when processed at high temperatures, create cancerous byproducts, like heterocyclic amines. It's estimated that meat going into pet food undergoes at least four high-temperature cooking processes in an average bag of food, leaving the digestibility, absorbability and overall nutrient value highly questionable.

Most dogs and cats will thrive when given fresh, whole foods, which mimic their ancestral diet, but unfortunately, many must make do with entirely processed, largely inferior alternatives. Your pet may have adapted to this diet, but it's a recipe for chronic disease.

The low moisture content of dry food is also problematic, especially for cats. Dry cat food provides only about one-tenth the amount of moisture cats receive from prey animals, living foods and even commercial canned diets, which puts significant stress on their kidneys and bladder.

Dogs also tend to become excessively thirsty when fed a dry food diet. The carb-heavy nature of dry food, along with the propensity for owners to feed more than their pet metabolically needs, is also a significant factor in rising rates of pet obesity.

Kick That Kibble to the Curb!

I recommend pet parents ditch dry food entirely and instead feed a nutritionally balanced, species-appropriate diet, which means food containing high-quality animal protein, moisture, healthy fats and fiber, with low to no starch content.

A nutritionally balanced raw or gently cooked homemade diet is the top choice for pets, but you should only attempt this if you're committed to doing it right. If you don't want to deal with balancing diets at home, choosing to feed a pre-balanced, commercially available raw food is a great choice. A freeze-dried/dehydrated diet is second best. Human-grade canned food is a mid-range choice, but can be hard to find.

And be sure to incorporate a variety of fresh foods into your pet's diet, too. Blueberries, chia and hemp seeds in coconut oil, raw pumpkin seeds, fermented vegetables and kefir can provide your furry family member with a variety of nutrition and flavors.

https://www.barkandwhiskers.com/2024-04-18-can-your-pets-eat-pineapple/
https://www.barkandwhiskers.com/p/45ac691c-e0c1-44c0-9f5a-8736379e6977/

Often added to fruit salads or eaten on its own, this tasty fruit can be added to your list of healthy, natural snacks for your pet. However, it contains a fair amount of sugar, so feed it in moderate amounts.

https://www.barkandwhiskers.com/2017-07-09-nl-struvite-stones-in-pets/
https://www.barkandwhiskers.com/p/c4c7614b-830b-4597-b1a9-fb0cd2a8ef6f/

By Dr. Becker

Struvite stones, also called triple phosphate stones and magnesium ammonium phosphate stones, are a type of bladder stone or bladder crystal that occurs in both dogs and cats. Magnesium, ammonia and phosphate are common substances found in urine. In high concentrations, they can bind together to form crystals that irritate your pet's bladder and cause inflammation. If the crystals combine with mucus, they can form plugs that partially or completely block the urinary tract.

In worst-case scenarios, these crystals fuse together to form uroliths, which is the medical term for bladder stones. Struvite stones account for about one-third of all urinary tract stones in dogs, and about half of all urinary stones in cats. Female pets around 6 to 7 years of age are the highest risk group for struvite stones. Dog breeds prone to struvite stones include the miniature Schnauzer, Shih Tzu, Bichon Frise, miniature Poodle, Cocker Spaniel and the Lhasa Apso.

Causes and Symptoms of Struvite Stones

Struvite stones can have a number of different causes, including extremely alkaline urine, which is often a result of a biologically inappropriate diet; a urinary tract infection (UTI) or another disorder of the urinary tract; abnormal urine retention, where urine is stored in the bladder for unnaturally long periods of time; and prolonged use or high doses of steroids. Some pets with bladder stones show no obvious signs, but common symptoms can include:

It's very important to know that a urinary blockage is possible with this type of stone and is a life-threatening medical emergency. If your pet isn't able to pass urine, you need to get him to a veterinarian or an emergency animal hospital immediately. Complete blockages are seen much more often and are typically much more serious in male pets than females.

Diagnosis of Struvite Stones

If your pet's bladder is extremely inflamed, it may also be enlarged. Sometimes with non-obese pets, a veterinarian may be able to feel the stones through the abdominal walls when he or she palpates the abdomen.

A urinalysis will check for the presence of blood, protein, glucose, ketones and bilirubin. It will also determine the concentration of the urine, which is a measure of kidney health and function and can be a contributing factor to stone formation. A urinalysis will also detect the presence of white blood cells, which are an indication of inflammation or infection.

A urine culture and sensitivity test will reveal if there is bacteria present and can also determine what medication will be most effective in clearing the infection. Because certain bacteria can contribute to struvite stone formation, this is a very important step that should not be skipped.

It's possible for your pet to have bladder inflammation along with crystals or stones, but no infection. This condition is called cystitis. If this is the case, the treatment protocol will obviously differ from the treatment for a urinary tract infection.

This is why it's so important that your veterinarian immediately establishes whether or not there's a bacterial infection, and if so, the type of bacteria present. It's bad medicine to simply guess at the type of bacteria your pet is dealing with, as well as the best antibiotic to treat it. This approach can foster antimicrobial resistance.

X-rays and ultrasounds are also quite important, especially if your pet has a recurrent issue. Imaging scans help your vet evaluate the size, shape and location of the stone(s), and can also help determine treatment options.

Treatment Recommendation: Create a Healthy Urine pH

If your pet has crystals or stones but is still able to urinate, the situation can often be managed with medication and dietary adjustments. The first thing we want to do for pets with crystals or stones is create a healthy urine pH that is neither too acidic nor too alkaline. A urinary pH of 7 is neutral. Everything above 7 is alkaline, and everything below 7 is acidic. Most pets with struvite crystals or stones will have a urine pH well above 7, which creates a perfect environment for bacterial proliferation.

Some pets start out with just some struvite crystals, but their alkaline urine eventually causes a urinary tract infection. Naturally acidic urine helps prevent urinary tract infections. Alkaline urine also creates a perfect environment for sediment to form in the bladder (often called "bladder sludge").

Bladder sludge is a blend of crystals, mucus and inflammatory debris that can be picked up on an ultrasound image. Dogs and cats, as carnivores, should have a slightly acidic urine pH, optimally between 6 and 6.5. We want to maintain the urine pH at no more than 7, because above 7, your pet is at risk for developing struvite crystals.

Some pets are genetically predisposed to producing a protein called cauxin, which is excreted into the urine, causing sterile crystals or sterile struvite crystalluria. This means the crystals can form without the presence of infection. These animals are prone to chronic cystitis (chronic bladder inflammation), as these sharp crystals cause microtrauma to the lining of the bladder that results in discomfort and irritation.

Supplements to Promote Healthy Urine pH

Many holistic veterinarians use Chinese herbal medicines, homeopathy and nutraceuticals to manage this condition, including glucosamine to help maintain the mucous membranes in the lining of the bladder, and cranberry extract, which helps fight urinary tract infections and promotes a healthy urine pH. We also use D-mannose to help prevent future infections once any current infection has been correctly identified and treated.

Herbs that may be beneficial include chanca piedra, dandelion, goldenseal, horsetail, marshmallow, plantain, Oregon grape root, uva ursi, yarrow, maitake mushrooms, corn silk and olive leaf. If you're a dog parent, I recommend buying pH test strips from your veterinarian or at the local drug store so you can check your pet's urine pH at home so you know when it's in or outside the desired range.

In the morning prior to feeding your dog is when you should collect the urine sample. You can either hold the pH tape in the stream while your dog is urinating, or you can catch a urine sample in a container and immediately dip the tape into the sample to check the pH. I also recommend keeping a log of your pet's urine pH to show to your vet at your appointments.

Cats tend not to appreciate an audience when they're using the litterbox, but if you can manage to slide a test strip through kitty's urine stream, do it, because it can provide valuable information.

Treatment Recommendation: Diet

In some cases your pet may need medical assistance getting his pH down into a healthy range. This can be accomplished by adding the amino acid DL-methionine, in tablet or powder form. This all-natural ingredient is what is added to veterinary diets to make them "prescription" for pets who are stone-prone.

I don't recommend feeding these highly processed diets for many reasons. They are made with feed-grade (not food-grade or human-grade) rendered meat sources. They also contain unnaturally high amounts of synthetic nutrients and grains. Those starchy carbohydrates are one of the reasons pets develop crystals in the first place.

A much better approach is to add DL-methionine to a high-quality, species-appropriate, home-prepared, starch-free diet, if the meat-based, fresh food diet alone doesn't fix the pH problem. Ask your holistic or integrative veterinarian for dosing instructions.

Occasionally, I have also had success modulating urine pH using ascorbic acid, which is vitamin C. Use true ascorbic acid, which helps pets drop urine pH down into a normal range, not buffered vitamin C. However, be aware that too much vitamin C can create loose bowels. If you find you can't control your pet's urine pH with ascorbic acid, you'll need to switch to DL-methionine.

Carnivores have naturally acidic urine. Herbivores, or vegetarian animals, have naturally alkaline urine. When dogs and cats — who are designed to eat animal meat — are fed a grain-based or high-starch diet, the starch alkalizes the urine, which can lead to the development of struvite crystals and stones.

When you look at the ingredient list on your pet's processed food, you'll see things like corn, wheat, rice and soy, as well as perhaps oatmeal, chickpea, sweet potato, potato and tapioca. All of those carbohydrates alkalize your pet's urine.

One of the best things you can do for a pet struggling to maintain a healthy urine pH is reduce the amount of carbohydrates or starches in her diet. To reduce urine pH, which is the goal for most pets with struvite crystals, I recommend feeding a low-carb, grain-free, starch-free, potato-free, preferably fresh food diet. My second choice is canned food or a dehydrated or freeze-dried diet that has been reconstituted with lots of water.

The Importance of Moisture in the Diets of Stone-Prone Pets

Often, a pet's urine pH can be maintained naturally between 6 and 6.5 on a nutritionally balanced, species-appropriate diet, which does not include kibble. Dry food can cause a tremendous increase in the concentration of your pet's urine, which can contribute to crystal and stone formation.

Feeding a high-moisture diet is one of the cornerstones in preventing struvite crystals. Insuring your pet is drinking plenty of clean, fresh water is also a primary prevention strategy.

You might want to consider providing a water fountain with continuously filtered, fresh, running water to encourage your pet to drink, along with placing bowls of fresh water in multiple locations around the house. You can also add bone broth or low-sodium bouillon or stock to the water or food to entice your pet to consume more water.

Creating more dilute urine by offering a moisture-rich diet is critical to avoiding a recurrence of stones or crystals. A species-appropriate diet in combination with infection management is often effective at dissolving struvite stones, but it can take a few weeks to several months for the stones to completely disappear.

When Surgery Is Required

Stones located in the urethra or the ureters, which are the tubes that connect the kidneys to the bladder, often must be surgically removed along with stones that don't dissolve despite dietary changes and medical management.

Sometimes, depending on the location and size of the stone, a technique called laser lithotripsy can be used to break down the stone into smaller pieces that can be passed out of the body in urine. There's also a procedure called voiding urohydropropulsion, which is a technique that involves manually expressing the stones out through the urethra while the patient is sedated.

If your pet has been diagnosed with struvite crystals or stones, it's imperative that you continue treatment until the condition is totally resolved, and then incorporate a proactive prevention plan to avoid recurrence. A urinalysis should be performed monthly until all the crystals are dissolved, and then every six months to insure no new crystals or stones are forming.

https://www.barkandwhiskers.com/2017-04-09-nl-why-cats-vomit/
https://www.barkandwhiskers.com/p/7960ed92-f164-4eb9-a2e0-24686240de61/

By Dr. Becker

One of the most common feline health issues is a tendency to vomit. Many kitties throw up on a more-or-less routine basis. It happens so frequently, in fact, that their humans and even some veterinarians assume chronic vomiting is completely normal for cats.

Typical excuses vets and cat guardians offer for regular episodes of vomiting include: "He eats too fast," "She has a sensitive stomach" or "Maybe it's just hairballs." I've even had clients say, "Oh he's just a puker. He barfs a lot and it's not a big deal."

Unless you're a vulture, vomiting a lot is not normal. My position has always been that chronic vomiting, even in kitties with hairballs, is not standard behavior and should be thoroughly investigated. It's important to remember that big cats in the wild don't routinely vomit.

Wild cats also don't have hairball issues, which is why I believe recurrent hairballs in housecats is also a sign that something is wrong. There's no need to panic, of course, but I would definitely recommend investigating what's going on with a kitty who is regularly coughing up hairballs.

Common causes of persistent vomiting in cats include a poor diet, food intolerances, eating too fast and too much time in between meals.

Other causes include enzyme deficiencies, gastrointestinal (GI) problems that manifest as hairballs, toxin ingestion and underlying medical conditions like kidney disease and GI cancer.

Reason No. 1: Poor Diet

If your kitty is eating a processed cat food that contains rendered ingredients, it could be contributing to vomiting. Rendered ingredients are leftovers from the human food industry, and can include animal pieces and parts like bird feathers, snouts, beaks, eyes, hooves and nails.

These are very poor-quality ingredients with low-to-no bioavailability that are difficult to impossible for cats to digest, and can cause GI upset. Cats tend to have upper GI issues, so they vomit. Dogs typically have lower GI issues, and are more inclined to develop diarrhea.

For the last hundred years, many cats have been fed diets that are not species-appropriate, which has led to the development of food sensitivities and allergies — a very common reason for intermittent vomiting over a period of months or years.

If your kitty has a healthy weight and has a normal energy level, but just throws up occasionally, food sensitivity could be the culprit. Food sensitivities develop when the same foods are fed over and over, which happens a lot with cats because they get addicted to certain foods and refuse to eat anything else.

I know lots of kitties who are seafood and poultry junkies. If they're offered another protein source, they go on a hunger strike. But feeding the same type of protein, even if it's excellent human-grade quality, can over time create GI inflammation and food sensitivities.

So it's not just about the quality of the protein, but also about switching proteins frequently. I recommend transitioning cats with GI upset to human-grade cat food, which unfortunately can be very difficult to find, and then to a fresh food diet.

I prefer a raw diet for cats who will eat it, but even gently cooked fresh food is a huge improvement over processed pet food. I also recommend rotating proteins every three to four months to avoid hypersensitivity reactions.

If you feed your cat treats, be sure to offer only high-quality treats. You don't want to spend money on excellent-quality food and then feed junky treats that can create GI inflammation and vomiting.

If you feed treats, it's important to offer the highest quality you can afford. Or better yet, make them yourself.

In store-bought treats, you should look carefully at the label and avoid anything containing propylene glycol, FDC red #4, ethoxyquin, chemical dyes, emulsifiers, surfactants and other questionable ingredients.

All those additives, preservatives and other chemicals can cause GI inflammation and vomiting.

It's also a myth that kitties need to have milk. I was raised with that myth. My parents gave our cats milk every morning, and every afternoon they threw up, but my folks never made the connection. Animals are only suited to digest and process milk from their own species.

Drinking the milk of a different species past weaning can cause or exacerbate GI inflammation. If your cat can't tolerate cow's milk, it can cause vomiting, so if you're giving him milk, I recommend you stop offering it.

Reason No. 2: Eating Too Fast

Another very common reason cats throw up is they eat too fast. Your cat's esophagus is horizontal and flat. Everything he eats has to travel horizontally before it moves into the stomach.

In cats with a tendency to gobble, the food sort of backs up in the esophagus and pushes against the lower esophageal sphincter. This can result in regurgitation of part or all of the meal, undigested, within moments of swallowing. This seems to be a special problem in multi-cat households in which all the kitties are fed in the same area at the same time, which can spark competition.

There's usually at least one gobbler in the group, and when the food bowls hit the floor, he scarfs his own meal in a flash and then visits everyone else's bowl to see about leftovers. He's such a little glutton that he often ends up regurgitating all that hastily eaten food on the floor.

If this is happening at your house, you need to feed your kitties in separate areas so they can't see or hear the others eat. It's best if you can close the door behind each cat, because it won't take long for your gobbler to figure out where the rest of the bowls are if he can still get to them.

Give them about 20 minutes of solitude to eat their food slowly and uninterrupted, then remove the bowls. This may slow down your gobbler, reduce or eliminate the vomiting and keep him from getting fat. It also allows your slower-eating kitties to relax while they dine.

If you have just one cat but she's a gobbler, you may need to split her meals into smaller portions and feed her more often so the food doesn't come right back up.

Reason No. 3: Too Much Time Between Meals

Cats fed on a regular schedule, say, at 6:00 AM and 6:00 PM each day, tend to start looking for their meal an hour or so earlier because their bodies know it's getting to be that time. (That's why I often awake with my cats on my head around 5:00 AM — they're letting me know it's time to eat!)

Around that same time, your cat's stomach will start releasing digestive substances like hydrochloric acid, gastric juices and bile, in anticipation of the upcoming meal. If you're late with her breakfast or dinner, there's a good chance kitty will throw up a white foamy liquid mixed with a bit of yellow bile.

This is because the digestive substances irritate the lining of the stomach when there's nothing in there for them to work on, so your cat's body gets rid of some of the acid to prevent further irritation. If this scenario is occurring with your kitty, it's best to give her a little something to snack on before you feed her, like a treat or a small bite of her meal. This will give her stomach juices something to digest and should alleviate the vomiting.

Reason No. 4: Enzyme Deficiencies

In some cats, the pancreas doesn't produce enough digestive enzymes, such as lipase, protease and amylase, which can result in acute or chronic pancreatitis. Pancreatitis, which is inflammation of the pancreas, is very common in cats, and even if there are no other observable symptoms, can be an underlying cause of intermittent vomiting.

Cats evolved to eat an entirely fresh food diet, primarily mice, which is a very rich source of digestive enzymes that is entirely missing from processed cat food. That's why I recommend adding a digestive enzyme to your cat's diet. It's sort of like buying insurance — you may never need it, but it's always good to have.

If your kitty's pancreas is producing adequate enzymes, adding additional enzymes to her food won't cause any problems. However, if her pancreas is not secreting sufficient enzymes, supplementing insures she'll have what her body needs to process her food. Providing a high-quality digestive enzyme can help reduce vomiting as well as the potential for pancreatitis.

Reason No. 5: Hairballs

If your kitty is vomiting hairballs, you'll see cylindrical wads of hair and debris, probably some undigested bits of food, and usually a little phlegm to bind the mess together. Sometimes hairballs can look like feces, so if you find a mess some distance away from the litterbox, it's probably a hairball and not poop. The smell (or lack of it) is also a clue.

Long-haired cats and cats who are really into grooming themselves — and often every other cat in the house — typically have more hairball issues than normal. To help prevent her from swallowing so much hair that it forms hairballs in her GI tract, you'll need to brush your cat regularly. If she's the designated hairdresser in a multi-cat household, you'll also need to brush the other kitties.

Cats eating dry food don't get enough moisture in their diet, so their organs tend not to function as efficiently as they should. And unlike dogs, kitties don't make up the deficiency by drinking lots of water, so they often end up chronically mildly dehydrated.

A GI tract that is moisture-depleted is less able to transport a hairball than the digestive tract of a well-hydrated cat eating a species-appropriate diet. Cats in the wild pass hair in their feces on a regular basis. Felines have tiny bristles on their tongues and are designed to process swallowed hair. Recurrent hairballs are abnormal. 

If your cat is eating exclusively dry food and you can't or aren't willing to switch to a different diet, I recommend adding bone broth to her dry food and a bit of fiber to each meal, or a petroleum-free hairball remedy, or even a dab of coconut oil on her front paw or near her bowl. I also recommend fiber and coconut oil together. Kibble fed cats need additional GI lubrication to help ingested hair pass through the digestive tract.

Reason No. 6: Toxin Ingestion

Sadly, poisoning is also a cause of acute vomiting in kitties. It's rare, but it happens. If you have a cat who is otherwise healthy, especially an indoor-outdoor kitty, and he suddenly starts vomiting, you should be concerned he has ingested something toxic.

Even if your cat is indoors only, unfortunately, many types of houseplants are poisonous for cats — and many cats like to sample houseplants. I have a lot of houseplants and I also have cats, but all my plants are non-toxic. It's important to make sure you're not bringing anything into your home that could potentially poison your feline family member.

It's important to note that since cats are designed to eat fresh food, they'll nibble on anything fresh in your house if they're not provided a fresh food diet. Since felines don't have a biological requirement for plants, it's a good bet most of these cats are trying to supplement a processed diet with living foods.

If you have cats that like to sample your houseplants, I recommend providing them roughage that is more palatable and safer than houseplants. You can do this in the form of cat grass, which is wheatgrass, or by offering fresh sunflower sprouts.

Any pesticides, herbicides or household cleaners that are stamped "call poison control" need to be safely stored out of the way of cats. You should assume that any cleaner you're using in your house will ultimately be ingested by your cat, because kitties lay on surfaces, and they're fastidious groomers.

All your household cleaners should be cat-friendly. I can't emphasize enough that if you are still using traditional toxic household cleaners, if you have cats, one of the best gifts you can give them is to switch to non-toxic organic household cleaners.

Reason No. 7: Underlying Medical Conditions

Many cats today have inflammatory bowel disease (IBD), or irritable bowel syndrome (IBS), which causes intermittent vomiting. IBD can progress to GI lymphoma in cats, which is another reason that chronic vomiting in any kitty should be investigated medically.

In addition to lymphoma, other types of GI cancers can also cause vomiting, as can metabolic disorders like hyperthyroidism, which is a very common disease diagnosed in older kitties. Organ disease or a malfunction of the organs of detoxification, including the liver and the kidneys, will also cause vomiting.

Where to Seek Help for a Vomiting Cat

To summarize, it's important to know that chronic vomiting is not normal for cats. It's a sign of a problem that needs to be diagnosed and treated. Your veterinarian should first rule out all the scariest reasons for vomiting, for example kidney failure, liver failure, hyperthyroidism or GI cancer.

If all those problems are ruled out and your veterinarian is concerned about potential IBD or IBS, I recommend submitting a blood sample to the GI lab at Texas A&M University for a functional GI test. That test can determine if your cat is dealing with malabsorption and maldigestion, or a disease of the small intestine or pancreas.

If you believe your cat may have a food hypersensitivity or allergy, I recommend Dr. Jean Dodd's Nutriscan saliva test, which can provide help in choosing a diet that's less reactive for your kitty. The good news is I've found that correcting food sensitivities, removing noxious or unnecessary ingredients from a cat's diet, as well as transitioning to a species-appropriate, fresh food, natural diet eliminates most of the common causes of vomiting in cats.

https://www.barkandwhiskers.com/2015-09-18-nl-yorkshire-terrier/
https://www.barkandwhiskers.com/p/da3a7ffd-d37c-4246-8737-72cb5f2acc6a/

By Dr. Becker

The tiny Yorkshire Terrier is one of the most popular dog breeds in the world.

Despite their small size, Yorkies have big personalities and need plenty of regular exercise and mental stimulation.

If you’re thinking of adding a Yorkshire Terrier to your family, be sure to check your local shelters and rescue organizations first to see if there’s an adoptable dog available.

10 Fun Facts About Yorkshire Terriers

The Tiny Yorkshire Terrier Has Big-Dog Confidence

Yorkshire Terriers are extremely intelligent, energetic, and loaded with confidence. The breed was developed in North England during the 19th century as ratters to control rodents in textile mills and coalmines. The Yorkshire Terrier’s ancestors include the long-extinct Clydesdale Terrier and the Black-and-Tan Terrier.

The Yorkshire Terrier breed was once called the Broken Haired Scotch Terrier, Broken Haired Toy Terrier, or simply Toy Terrier. The name Yorkshire Terrier was adopted in the 1970s as a salute to the place where the breed was born.

Yorkies Can Be Great Agility Competitors

Don’t let his small size fool you – this little guy loves speed, action, and lots of attention, so canine sports such as agility can be a great way to challenge and stimulate him.

Also don’t assume he’s a purse-dog whose feet should never touch the ground. Your Yorkie loves long walks and the opportunity to show off his guard dog skills!

Yorkies are known to be brave, adventurous, and loyal. They are curious and learn quickly. They have a strong hunting instinct, so it’s best to keep your Yorkie a safe distance from any small pets in the house such as hamsters or birds.

Yorkies Are Independent Little Souls

Yorkshire Terriers can be lapdogs, but often only in short bursts. And while they enjoy pleasing their humans, they are easily distracted by other interests.

Some Yorkies are sweet and cuddly, while others tend to be more entertaining and mischievous. The sweet-n-cuddly Yorkie makes for a better lapdog, if that’s what you’re looking for.

Since this breed is notoriously stubborn, it’s important to obedience train and socialize your Yorkie puppy to insure she doesn’t develop bad habits that will be very difficult to extinguish once she’s an adult.

Healthy Yorkies Are Long-Lived

Yorkshire Terriers live 14 to 16 years on average, but they are prone to several health conditions, including liver shunts, collapsing tracheas, luxating patellas, dental issues, hypothyroidism, and Legg-Calve-Perthes disease. Low blood sugar is also a problem, along with certain types of bladder stones, hair loss, cataracts, and ingrown eyelashes.

Very tiny Yorkies (under 4 pounds) are prone to more health problems, and in my opinion, breeders who select for “teacup” size are sacrificing the health of their dogs in favor of an abnormally small size.

The Yorkie Coat Is High-Maintenance

The good news is your Yorkie sheds little to no hair, however, his long silky coat needs extensive grooming. To prevent tangles and matting, his coat needs to be brushed 4 to 5 times a week with a firm bristle brush, and professionally trimmed regularly. Your Yorkie’s eyes and ears must also be cleaned regularly to avoid infection, and daily tooth brushing is necessary to avoid dental problems.

One of the First Therapy Dogs Was a Yorkshire Terrier

A US soldier fighting in the Pacific theater during World War II came upon a Yorkie puppy hiding in a foxhole. The dog was named Smoky, and she went on to visit injured American soldiers, and later worked stringing communication lines between military outposts in the Philippines.

Yorkies with Undocked Tails Look Especially Adorable

While the American Kennel Club (AKC) still insists on docked tails as part of the Yorkshire Terrier breed standard, knowledgeable humane Yorkie breeders and owners are increasingly opting to forego this barbaric practice.

Yorkies Need Regular Exercise

It’s a common misconception that toy breeds don’t need vigorous exercise. Yorkshire Terriers in particular require physical activity. Daily walks and frequent playtime in an open area will keep your Yorkie physically fit and mentally stimulated. Lack of adequate exercise can result in behavior problems.

This breed can gain weight easily, so take care not to overindulge your Yorkie.

Yorkies Are Talkers

Actually, they’re barkers. It’s the watchdog in them. It’s a good idea to train your Yorkie to stop barking on command (or to avoid barking when the urge strikes), unless you appreciate a small dog with a big mouth.

Yorkies Can Be Difficult to Housetrain

The myth that Yorkies are impossible to housetrain is indeed a myth. Your little boy or girl probably won't learn in a week, but with consistency, patience, and lots of positive reinforcement you can potty train your Yorkie.

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By Nancy Scanlan, DVM, Executive Director of the American Holistic Veterinary Medical Foundation

Have you ever known a dog or cat who keeps lick, lick, licking at one spot and will not stop? Sometimes it's triggered by a skin irritation. Sometimes it starts as a scrape or injury. Often, there doesn't seem to be a trigger at all.

These poor uncomfortable pets seem obsessed. They keep licking until all the fur is gone and then continue until the skin starts to go. They rip through bandages almost as fast as you can put them on. If you put one of those big lampshade-type collars on them, they either find a way to lick in spite of the collar, or they rub the bothersome area up against furniture or across the floor.

You literally have to tear the animal away from her foot (or wherever the problem is). It's amazing how strong a fluffy little creature can be when she wants to get back to licking that sore – that sore that has turned into a lick granuloma.

Lick Granuloma: A Very Common, Very Frustrating Condition

Lick granuloma is a condition in which a pet, most often a dog, continues to lick a single spot (usually on a leg) until all the hair is gone and a perpetual sore develops.

All veterinarians have seen these cases. And all veterinarians know that what used to be the magic answer for a lick granuloma stops working sooner or later. We all know that whatever the most common cause of these things is in a given area, we can't count on it to always be the cause. If the pet or the vet moves to a new area, we start all over again looking for the cause and the best cure.

Veterinarians are taught to diagnose disorders before treating them so that we can be sure we're using the treatment most likely to work. Something that works for a lick granuloma caused by "A" can make the sore worse if it is caused by "B". We start with tests for the most common causes of the condition and move on to tests for less common causes if necessary.

As your pet's veterinarian, we're as frustrated as you are.

Causes of Lick Granuloma

Lick granuloma is often difficult to treat, and treatment that is successful in one dog does not always work for other dogs. There can be a single cause, or multiple causes, and sooner or later infection can exacerbate the problem.

Often there is a behavior component because many dogs become obsessed with the sore, or they are anxious and lick the sore just like some people chew their fingernails to the quick when they feel anxious.

Other causes of a lick granuloma can include:

A deep-seated bacterial infection that doesn't respond to short-term antibiotic therapy	Arthritis of a joint far away from the sore
A superficial bacterial infection that is sometimes better treated topically	Stress from loss of another pet in the family
A yeast infection that can't be treated with antibiotics	Allergies
Arthritis of a joint near the sore	Nerve damage or disc disease in the back and/or the neck

There are so many potential causes for lick granuloma that if you own enough dogs, sooner or later you'll probably be dealing with this condition.

Typical Treatments for Lick Granulomas

If your pet has a lick granuloma, your veterinarian will want to do some testing. Probably lots of testing. We really want to try to find out what's underlying the problem before we try to treat it.

If your vet finds a probable cause, but the treatment for that cause doesn't work, there's a chance there is more than one cause, calling for more than one treatment.

The approach in conventional veterinary medicine has been to diagnose as many contributing causes as possible, and then use a combination of treatments to address the issue.

These conventional treatments include:

• Drugs that help anxiety
• Drugs that help pain
• Drugs that help inflammation
• Drugs that help infections
• Narcotic antagonists
• Surgery

Even with all those treatments, lick granulomas are still a big problem for veterinarians trying to treat them. If you've ever known a dog with the condition, you know how frustrating and costly it can be. Even when you add integrative medicine, including perhaps acupuncture, herbs, chiropractic, and/or homeopathy, there will always be some poor dog out there who still is suffering.

Laser Therapy Research Can Give Us a Better, Faster Treatment

Low Level Laser Therapy (LLLT), also known as cold laser therapy, has been helpful for many pets with lick granuloma. But, there is no research to support its use – just reports that it seems to help.

Some people think we should just go ahead and try it and forget the lack of research. But if we do that, we are going in blind. The first low level laser treatment was pioneered in the late 1960s, almost as a mistake.

The researcher was trying to destroy cancers with lasers but the laser power was too low. Instead, it helped mice heal faster from surgical wounds. The researcher didn't get what he was looking for, but he found a way to help mice.

The problem is that if we just guess at the dose, we have no systematic way of testing the proper wavelength, intensity, duration, or timing of treatments. What we're left with are a lot of anecdotal stories. My way worked for me, your way worked for you … but we're trying to compare apples to oranges. 

Formal scientific research will help us determine whether laser therapy really does work, how often to treat, what type of cold laser to use, and what setting is appropriate.

A research project has been presented to the AHVM Foundation that will answer whether laser therapy helps, how often it should be done, and whether the safest low-intensity laser is beneficial. The laser therapy researchers have already had some success and want to continue testing to see if their results hold.

With a successful project, thousands of veterinarians, conventional as well as holistic, will have the support they need to start using laser therapy. All we're missing is the money to fund the research.

If you have ever had a pet with an uncomfortable, persistent, and seemingly incurable skin disease, now is the time to open your heart and help us support this project. Help us find a better, faster treatment for lick granulomas. There is a good chance that you or someone you know will have a pet that will be helped by this.

Shine a light on health!

How You Can Help

To donate, go to the AHVMF website, click on Ways to Give on the top menu, and there you'll find a number of different ways to make a donation. If you're not comfortable donating online, scroll down to the bottom of the Ways to Give page, and you'll see a Ways to Donate Online and Offline link.

At AHVMF.org, you can also read amazing stories of animals who have been healed with holistic medicine, as well as stories of animal teachers. There's also a blog that reports on some of the projects the foundation is working on. If you have any questions while visiting the site, you can send the foundation an email at office@ahvmf.org.

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By Dr. Karen Shaw Becker

Just like human feet, dogs' paws have a lot of jobs to do. And since our furry pals aren't really into footwear and tend not to worry about what they're stepping in or on, their paws and nails can take quite a beating. This is especially true for working and hunting dogs, as well as canine athletes.

Fortunately, canine feet are tough and durable, so minor paw and nail problems tend to heal quickly on their own. However, many dog parents don't realize there are a number of canine disorders and diseases that seem unconnected to their pet's paws and nails, but that can have a significant effect on them, including the following conditions.

5 Disorders That Can Damage Your Dog's Paws

Since there are so many things that can go wrong with your dog's paws, from a minor scrape or torn toenail to a serious underlying disease, it's always a good idea to make an appointment with your veterinarian if you see your dog licking or chewing at his feet, if the appearance of his paws or nails changes in any way, and certainly if he seems he's having trouble walking due to a problem with his feet.

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By Dr. Becker

The Munchkin cat breed, most known for their short legs, has gained considerable fame in recent years, largely due to the abundance of online videos featuring these inarguably adorable felines.

Their popularity is mired in controversy, however, because the genetic mutation that causes their short legs is a form of chondrodystrophism, or dwarfism, and with it can come a high risk of medical problems.

Munchkin cats became a breed recognized by The International Cat Association (TICA) in 2003, but the Cat Fanciers Association (CFA) does not recognize the breed.

History of the Munchkin Breed

Despite their relative newness as a breed, the mutation that causes short legs in cats has been around for a long time. Reports of short-legged cats date back to the 1940s, when a British veterinarian described four generations of what are now known as munchkins.¹

Short-legged cats were also reported in Russia, New England and Louisiana, the latter of which being where the modern-day breed came from. According to TICA:²

“In 1983 Sandra [Hochenedel] found a pregnant short-legged female that became the foundation for the breed we call the Munchkin. Sandra named the cat Blackberry.

She gave a male, Toulouse, from one of Blackberry's litters to her friend Kay LaFrance and it is from these two cats that the breed was established using domestic cats as an outcross to ensure a diverse gene pool.”

TICA began tracking the development of the breed in 1994 and revealed that the cats’ short legs stem from a dominant pattern of inheritance, similar to that found in short-legged dog breeds like corgis and dachshunds.

The controversy arises over whether it’s ethical to purposely breed a cat with an extreme physical characteristic, simply for aesthetic purposes — especially one that might put the cat’s health at risk. Corgis and dachshunds, for instance, often have spinal problems as a result of their statures.

TICA claims that “the spine of the cat differs in structure from that of a dog and so the short legs do not result in the spinal problems that sometimes appears in canines.”³ However, other experts beg to differ.

Do Munchkin Cats Avoid Jumping Because It's Too Painful?

In an interview with The Dodo, Dr. Carol Margolis, a veterinarian and lecturer at the University of Pennsylvania School of Veterinary Medicine, disputed the claim that munchkin cats are at no risk of spinal and other health problems.

"As far as what we know, the inappropriate bone formation absolutely leads to abnormal loading, which predisposes them to osteoarthritis. They can have spinal malformations, lordosis and scoliosis … and they can be born with rib abnormalities," she said.⁴

Their short legs also make it difficult, or perhaps too painful, for munchkins to jump. Margolis said, “Many of the descriptions of these cats is that they cannot jump due to their deformities, but the question is: Is it that they cannot jump, or they will not jump because their deformities are so painful?"⁵

Veterinarian Dr. Patty Khuly also pointed out in Vetstreet that munchkins aren’t adorable, medically speaking.

She states that most chondrodystrophics suffer from inevitable health issues, such as intervertebral disk disease and cruciate ligament disease.⁶ Purposely breeding cats with this trait is therefore not only irresponsible but unethical.

Katie Lisnik, director of cat protection and policy at the Humane Society of the United States (HSUS), told The Dodo:⁷

"Breeding animals for exaggerated physical characteristics, particularly when it compromises overall health, is irresponsible. Breeders should place the long-term health and welfare of their breeding animals and offspring above their efforts to win shows and garner fees."

Munchkin Cats Have Big Personalities

While some people originally seek out munchkins because of their physical characteristics, they fall in love with them because of their personalities. Known for being playful and full of energy, munchkins are also affectionate and typically get along well with other cats, dogs and children.

Unfortunately, their outgoing personalities have created a growing demand for these genetic misfits.

Although they’re not agile jumpers, munchkins are capable of moving at high speeds and zooming around corners with surprising agility. Some also enjoy hiding objects (especially shiny objects) to play with later.

If you’re considering adding a cat to your family, check out your local cat rescue organizations, which have a mix of purebred and mixed-breed cats waiting to find forever homes. Be very wary of obtaining a munchkin cat from a breeder. As noted by the pet adoption site Petfinder:⁸

“Ironically, the controversy surrounding the breed has contributed to its growing popularity. Because of articles in The Wall Street Journal, People Magazine and other publications, public demand for [m]unchkins has been great, the waiting lists long, and the supply limited.

The sports car of the cat fancy is commanding sports car prices, too, and … disreputable … [breeders may] take advantage of the [m]unchkin's popularity by using unethical breeding practices.”

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By Dr. Becker

The Tonkinese was created by humans by crossing Siamese and Burmese cats.

Tonkinese have distinctive oval-shaped paws and many have beautiful blue or aquamarine eyes. The Tonk is an outgoing, playful cat that craves attention and especially affection from his humans.

If you’re thinking of adding a Tonkinese cat to your family, be sure to check your local shelters and rescue organizations for adoptable cats.

8 Fascinating Facts About Tonkinese

The Tonkinese Is a Cross Between a Siamese and a Burmese

The Tonkinese is a human-designed domestic cat breed — the result of crossing Siamese and Burmese breeds. The goal was to create a cat with a less sharp voice than the Siamese, but with the affectionate nature and intelligence both breeds share.

The mixing of Siamese and Burmese breeds has resulted in three common coat patterns in the Tonkinese: solid, like the Burmese; pointed, like the Siamese; and mink, which is a combination of the two. It takes up to two years for the Tonkinese coat color to fully develop.

The Tonkinese Graduated from Crossbreed to Purebred in 2001

Today’s Tonkinese is the result of the crossbreeding of Canadian Siamese and Burmese cats. The breed was recognized in Canada in 1971 and received full recognition from the Cat Fanciers Association in 1984.

The Tonkinese was officially moved from crossbreed status to an established breed in 2001.

The name Tonkinese refers to the Tonkin region of Indochina for no particular reason, since the breed has no connection with that area of the world.

Tonkinese Weigh Just 6 to 12 Pounds, But Are Surprisingly Heavy When Picked Up

The Tonkinese is a medium-sized kitty with a build that falls somewhere between the long, lean lines of the modern Siamese and the slightly bulkier Burmese. The Tonk, as he is known, has a muscular body that is heavier than it appears.

The Tonkinese has distinctive oval paws, a slightly wedge-shaped head, and almond-shaped eyes that are often a shade of blue. Tonks with mink colored coats frequently have aquamarine eyes.

The Tonk Is a Natural Entertainer

The Tonkinese is a smart, outgoing and energetic kitty. Tonks tend to follow their humans from room to room, ride on their shoulders, and insist on being involved in all goings-on in the home.

Since your Tonkinese is quite social, if you’re gone a lot, it’s a good idea to pair her up with another cat or even a friendly dog to keep her company.

Tonks like to jump up on high surfaces, retrieve toys, and can learn to walk on a leash and harness. To keep her body active and her mind stimulated, teach your Tonkinese tricks and make use of a variety of interactive toys.

The Tonkinese Is a Love Bug

If you’re not into lap cats, the Tonk probably isn’t for you. This breed is highly affectionate and can’t get enough attention and cuddling. The Tonkinese also tends to be quite the conversationalist, and gets along well with gentle children and other pets.

Tonkinese Are Healthy Cats

Tonkinese are a generally healthy and hearty breed, though they can be prone to gingivitis (gum disease), and may be sensitive to anesthesia. Because they are descended from the Siamese, they may develop some of the same diseases.

The average lifespan of the breed is 10 to 16 years.

The Tonkinese Coat Is Easy to Care For

The Tonkinese coat is soft and short, so it can be well maintained with a weekly brushing to pull away dead hair and distribute oils on the skin. Because your Tonk may be prone to gum disease, you should brush his teeth daily or several times a week.

Tonkinese Can Be Hard to Find

This is especially the case if you’re hoping to adopt a homeless Tonk.

This breed is uncommon, so it’s unlikely that you will find one in a shelter or through a rescue group (but please look there first). Also check websites such as Petfinder, Adopt-a-Pet.com or the Fanciers Breeder Referral List, and ask breeders if they know of a Tonkinese who is in need of a new home.

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By Dr. Becker

If you have a cat in the family, you’ve probably encountered situations in which you’re lovingly petting little Tigger, when he suddenly wriggles away and puts some distance between you. He might even give you a little swat or nip for good measure. You’re left thinking, “What the heck did I do?”

Because pet parents are human and think with their human brains, they tend to assume their animal companions appreciate the same kind of touching they do. But experts know animals prefer human touch that is similar to the touch of members of their own species.

To Pet Your Cat in the Right Spots, Pretend You’re a Cat

In thinking about what your cat might prefer, it’s interesting to note that feline friends tend to lick each other, an activity called allo-grooming, so it's possible Tigger would really prefer you lick rather than pet him (not recommended!).

Cat friends also tend to lick each other in spots loaded with scent glands, such as the lips, chin and cheek, between the eyes and ears and around the base of the tail. When kitties rub against one another in these areas, they exchange scents and wind up smelling similar, which is apparently a good thing.

In fact, experts recommend swapping scents between two cats who’ve never met before introducing them. (If you ever have a need to do this, you can gently wipe one cat's head with a clean cloth and then gently stroke the other cat's head with the same cloth.)

Given the above, it seems to make sense that the face, head and base of the tail would be where cats would prefer their humans pet them, but at least one study shows cats do NOT like to be stroked by the base of their tails.¹ Not everyone agrees with that conclusion, however, as you’ll see below.

4 Good Spots, 1 Bad Spot

According to VetStreet, there are four good places to pet your cat, and one bad one.² Pet here:

1. Base of the chin. Kitties seem to really enjoy being gently rubbed beneath the chin, especially right in the spot where the jawbone connects to the skull, which is rich with scent glands.
2. Cheeks, behind the whiskers. This is another area loaded with scent glands. It seems Fluffy really likes it when you rub areas of her body that contain scent glands, because those little glands release her scent onto you. She has “scent marked” you without even trying!
3. Base of the ears. Guess what’s at the base of your cat’s ears? That’s right — more scent glands. Apparently the goal of scent-marking is to make kitty’s territory (including you) smell familiar, and therefore comfortable and safe. That’s why head butting or bunting is a favorite feline pastime.
4. Base of the tail. Many cats seem to enjoy it when their human runs a hand down their back and applies gentle pressure at the base of the tail. If your kitty amplifies his purring and lifts his backend up toward your hand, he’s a base-of-the-tail guy.

Not here:

1. Tummy. It’s safe to say most (not all, but most) cats don’t enjoy belly scratches. This is because if your kitty lived in the wild, predators would be a constant threat. The most vulnerable spot on your cat’s body is her belly. Just beneath the surface of that silky skin lie all her vital organs.

Most cats instinctively shield their tummies, though some do learn to enjoy a gentle belly rub. Your best bet is to assume your cat doesn’t, and limit your petting to safe areas of her body.

Petting-Related Feline Aggression

Some cats who don’t enjoy being petted a certain way can take their disapproval to another level and show hostility toward their well-meaning human. If your kitty displays aggression while you’re petting him, it can be really confusing – especially if he came to you seeking attention, but then suddenly copped an attitude.

There’s an explanation for the behavior that may make you feel a little better. Some cats, for reasons we have yet to uncover, have a built-in “petting limit.” In other words, they have a low tolerance for being stroked and petted. When your kitty reaches his petting limit, he’s probably displaying body language to tip you off.

For example, he may tense up. He may flatten his ears, twitch his tail or try to wriggle out of your grip. He may even growl. However your cat shows anger, chances are he's showing it before he takes a swipe at you. The trick is to learn his “I’ve had enough” body language and let him go at the first sign.

It's also not a good idea to restrain your cat while petting him. In general, it's always best to let kitty come to you. Cats like to feel in control of their environment. They want interactions on their terms. Uninvited touching and handling is not a good way to bond with your feline companion.

The more you let your cat make his own choices, the more often you might find him jumping into your lap. And even when he's in your lap, he may not want a lot of petting, so tune in to his body language. Some cats are just cuddlier than others.